Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition 2024 & 2025
Mt. Ama Dablam is located in the Khumbu region of eastern part Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), the lower western peak is 5,563 metres (18,251 ft). Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the Dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women.
Ama Dablam was first climbed on March 13, 1961, by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimated to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 meters near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the Southwest Ridge. Climbers typically set up three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier the Dablam. Any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes left, away from the camp. However, a 2006 avalanche proved otherwise. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April-May (before the monsoon) and September-October.
ITINERARY
The below is a tentative itinerary to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Changes may be made to suit the situation and most importantly, keeping in mind the safety and well being of the climbing members.
Day 1:
Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
Day 2-3:
Free day in Kathmandu, (official procedure and arrangements for climbing gears)
Day 4:
Kathmandu to Lukla (2860m) by flight & trek to Phakding (2640m) (spend the night in lodge)
Day 5:
Phakding to Namche Bazar (3446m) (spend the night in lodge)
Day 6:
Rest day in Namche for acclimatization (spend the night in lodge)
Day 7:
Namche Bazar to Tengboche(3867m) (spend the night in lodge)
Day 8:
Tengboche to Mt. Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600m)
Day 9:
Rest day in Base Camp (preparation for climbing)
Day 10-25:
Climbing Period of Mt. Ama Dablam (6812m)
Day 26:
Base camp to Tengboche (spend the night in lodge)
Day 27:
Tengboche to Namche Bazar (spend the night in lodge)
Day 28:
Namche Bazar to Lukla (spend the night in lodge)
Day 29:
Fly back to Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
Day 30:
Free day in Kathmandu
Day 31:
Departure
"Nima Kanchha Sherpa is an accomplished climbing Sirdar of Sherpa Khumbiyila Adventures a family run business which provided and delivered a professionally run trip you couldn't be in safer hands. From the moment we were met at the airport in Katmandu with his cousin every detail was organised with family members playing a part and expertise they all had, this ensured our expedition was going to be safe, relaxed and an enjoyable adventure from start to finish.
The attention to detail, preparation and care in accommodation, trekking and acclimation training made us ready to climb Ama Dablam couldn't have been better.
Nima and his team new exactly the pace needed and how hard to push you which prepared us fully for a successful summit of all our team in November 2016.
Nima's expertise is apparent he is calm, patient and extremely competent and knowledgable I couldn't recommend him and his family members more.
My experience is truly life changing we experienced the traditional Nepalese culture and traditions, joined his family not as clients but friends.
I look forward to climbing with him again."